Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Trip to Goiânia (May 23 - May 26)



The Kindness of Strangers:





I am constantly amazed at how nice people are in Brazil, even when they don't know you. We had a four-day weekend, so I decided to visit a few historical sites and a spa:) in Goiânia. Getting travel information in Brazil, however, was so complicated! The travel agencies are only moderately helpful; they can't work with the bus schedules, only flights. And if you want to take a bus, you have to call the specific bus company that goes to the city you would like to visit. You can't just call a tourist office or the bus depot and get all the information. No, that would be too easy. First you call one number and then they refer you to another, and another, and another. I thought France could be bureaucratic, but it's nothing compared to this. So, needless to say, I had some help before I left, and we spent a couple of hours on the phone trying to get all the times coordinated so that I can could do 3 day trips on my 4 day travel. Apparently, this is not a common phenomena either. Usually, families go by car, or at least pick one spot and stay there. Being the fast-paced traveler that I am though, I wanted to see as much as possible:)


Starting off by myself, I expected to figure this out the best I could on my own. However, it turned out that one of my friends in Londrina knew three people in Goiânia, and although they were going to be busy or out of town, one of them, Rosane, said she would pick me up at the airport, bring me to my hotel, and help me figure out the bus schedules for the weekend. This was way beyond my expectations, especially since she didn't even know me - so nice. On the airplane, I met another woman from Goiânia who gave me her phone number if I needed anything, and when we got off the plane, she also helped me find some travel information at the airport. This was after she had gotten off an international flight, been separated from her husband and all her luggage and hadn't slept in 48 hours. Again, beyond kind!

So, Rosane, a professor in Goiânia, met me at the airport with a sign her daugher had made with my name: Margareth, colored with balloons:) I don't know why everyone, even English teachers, seem to think my name is spelled with an "h", but still it was so cute that she would bring a sign and meet me. Rosane was a big help. We got to the hotel and then I made it to the bus station by 12:00pm and was able to go on the first excursison to Goiáss Velho the very same day I arrived. Rosane was heading to Brasilia for the weekend, but I took a 2 and a half hour bus ride to this historic UNESCO site. It's an 18th century town with very quaint architecture artisinal shops. I didn't feel that comfortable walking around by myself, though. There weren't that many people there on a Friday. It seemed kind of deserted and I felt a little out of place. But I stayed for a few hours, bought some beautiful pottery and earrings, and ate the traditional empadão (a little bit like a beef pie). Then I took another 3-hour bus ride back to Goiânia and fell right asleep since I had left Londrina at 5:00am that morning!

Goiás Velho



The next day I woke up very early and contacted another wonderful person, whom I hadn't met before. One of my students in Londrina had a friend that she told me to call and that I could stay with for the second two days I was there. Janaina couldn't have been nicer. She came with a whole entourage (cousin, and 3 friends!) to pick me up at the hotel at 8:00am, take my luggage for me, and drop me off at the bus station again for a second day trip. Unfortunately, they already had plans, so I went again by myself to Pirenópolis. This is another 18th century town, UNESO site. I liked this town much better than Goiás Velho because there were so many more people, wonderful cafes and restaurants, and it felt a little more charming.

A woman was washing her clothes in the river right in the middle of the city.



I stayed in Pirenópolis for a few hours and then visited one of the other famous attrations in the area: the Waterfalls of Bonsucesso. This is park near Pirenópolis that has six waterfalls with small lagoons you can swim in. I would have loved to go swimming; it was really hot! But I didn't have my suit with me. Instead I just waded. These were very beautiful!


Then I headed back to Goiânia at the end of the day. It would have been fun to stay overnight here; I think there would be a lot going on, and nice music, etc. Unfortunately, I had already arranged to stay in Goiânia and my luggage was there. But there weren't any direct buses in the evening. I had to go to a neighboring town and then take the local bus back (1 hour). This was an experience, since most tourists do not take this route, and now that I was in more central Brazil, the people tended to look more native and indigenous. I certainly stood out like a sore thumb! But, it was okay. The sunsets in this area were incredible! I was always on the bus and couldn't take a clear photo, but it was always clear, over the plains, with an enormous red firey ball setting in the sky - just beautiful! It looked like the opening credits to "The Golden Girls" with the plane passing a full sun in the sky:)


Once I got back, I had to wait a while at the bus station and then the whole entourage came to pick me up again. It turned out that they had one car for the family, but nobody knew how to drive! Only one cousin could drive, or a friend who lived nearby, so these two people were kind enough to play chauffeur an awful lot whenever anybody needed anything. Janaina lived with her sister, Jackeline and Jackeline's little boy, Alexandre. Also, with their brother Paulo and sometimes some of the cousins. Their parents, along with the youngest brother, have been living in Miami for the past 10 years, working and trying to send enough money back home for the family. I had never met anyone who was actually going through this kind of separation, but it definitely seems very difficult. However, the parents will be coming home for good this July and they will be reunited again.


They were extremeley kind, and had me try the local "galinhada" (chicken and rice dish)as well as rosca - see below(a type of coffee cake without the coffee flavor:))


Me with Jaka

Me with Jana

Alexandre even tried to help me with my pronunciation of grandfather "vovô", and grandmother "vovó"!:) Take a look at the video.


This was a great trip! We had one more day at the most spectacular place I saw near Goiânia, Rio Quente Rio, but that will be a separate posting.

Friday, May 23, 2008

Waiting in line for tickets to FILO, Londrina's International theater festival



The chaotic line system



As you have probably guessed, waiting in long lines is part of Brazil's "charm". It seems that any time there is a line that should take 10 minutes, it turns into at least an hour. The banks here are only open from 11am until 4pm, and I have never seen so many people at a bank before in my life! There are rows and rows of chairs for you to wait, and you take a number, just as if you are waiting to have your license renewed or are waiting at the Embassy to receive a visa for your passport.

So at any rate, last Thursday, May 22 (another religious holiday:)) when we went to the shopping center to buy tickets for the theater festival which takes place in June, I was not surprised to see the line curving around every which way in no orderly fashion. And I expected to wait a while until we made it up to the ticket kiosks. However, after standing there for 30 minutes and not moving an inch, we decided to go and see if there was a special "priority" line that might be shorter. Of course there was such a line - for retirees, preganant women and handicapped people. But no one seemed to be checking any identification to verify this status, so we decided to wait there. Instead of the 150 people or so who were ahead of us for the "normal" queque, this line only had 5 or 6 people, so we figured maybe we could get through in 30 to 40 minutes. Wrong! It took close to 3 hours!


Why should it take this long? Well, every person in line had a list of one page or more of the performances they wanted to see. The computers being used looked about 20years old and they could only print the tickets ONE by ONE. So, even if you knew exactly what you wanted to buy, it took quite a while to print all of the tickets. Plus, between you and the seller was a full window of glass with only one tiny spot to speak through. The opening was fairly high, so you had to practically jump up every time you wanted to make your request. And with all the background noise it was incrediby difficult to hear each other. This was cause for much confusion, and in verifying the tickets once they were printed, more than one customer had to go back and make changes to their misunderstood orders, which added to the wait:)

There was no clear boundary or sign for our "priority" line either. You just had to know to go there. Luckily, the professor I was with always knows at least 3 or 4 people everywhere we go, so she had friends in this line:)
But the poor other students and people in the regular line who actually made it to the front and were able to get tickets, had been waiting for close to 7 hours! Finally, they started asking people to take a number, and once the numbers were gone you weren't allowed in line any longer. You had to come back the next day. I can only imagine the frustration of those that had been there since early morning and by 4:00pm were told they wouldn't get tickets that day!

Our line on the far left:)

This system was insane! It would have been much easier if, first of all, people could buy the tickets online (which they were not able to do) and of course if they had workers going through the line, explaining which plays were sold out, etc. Also, in the U.S., there would never be a priority line without checking I.D. to make sure you belonged there. Athough this proved to be to our benefit here, it was still very comical to have a line that anybody from "5 hours" back could join without issue:)

My patience level overall doesn't seem to hold up to that of Brazilians. They take everything with a grain of salt, and good humour. People spent the time talking to those around them and sharing the coffee drink and snacks one person would go to buy:) And every time someone finally managed to purchase tickets and free up one more spot in line (usually in intervals of 30 minutes or so), the entire group would errupt into a cheering and clapping crowd!

Overall, it was quite funny and another great day of cultural experiences in Brazil. Hopefully, the plays will be worth the long wait:)

Tuesday, May 20, 2008

News from Lake Igapó, Londrina



The nature in Londrina itself is really beautiful as well. Don't these pictures look a little like Lake Harriet in Minneapolis, for those who know it?

Sunset at the lake, May 19








I don't usually get a chance to see sunrise since I am REALLY not a morning person, but I couldn't sleep at all on Monday and was still up at 6:30am, so I took the opportunity to go back and take these early morning shots of the lake (Tues May 20):













Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Aniversários em Londrina

Last weekend we had a tri-birthday party for two of the professors at UEL, Kilda and Telma, and Telma's nephew, Raphael. They had the party at the family "chakara" which, since most of you probably aren't familiar with, is basically a country house with a pool and a barbeque area where friends and family can go on weekends. Barbeques are extremely popular here! This party food was a "galhinada" - chicken and rice, Bahian style(very good!).

Singing Happy Birthday - Parabéns
In Brazil, the whole family goes up behind the cake and everyone claps and sings to them - much livier than in the U.S.!!:) Here are the birthday guests and their families: Fernanda and Paloma (Telma's daughters), Mirian (Rapahel's mother, Telma's sister), Leni (Telma and Mirian's mother), Kilda (Telma's former sister-in-law)

Fernanda, Leni, Raphael, Paloma and Telma

Kilda, Leni, Raphael, Telma and Paloma

Leni, Raphael, Mirian, Telma and Paloma


Guests:Denise (Prof. from UEL) and her new baby, Paula

John (visiting prof. from Indiana Univ.), me and Telma

Me with Leni, Telma's mother, who I stayed with my first two weeks in Londrina.


Rotary exchange students from Germany


Me with Kilda, one of the guests of honor

Carolina (Rapahel's sister) and her boyfriend, another Raphael

Regina, Alamir (from UEL), John, Telma and me


Klaas (visiting prof. from The Netherlands), Simone, from UEL, and me

Professors from UEL: Loreni, me, Kilda, Simone, Klaas (Holland), Lincoln, Marcus and Telma